The booster-master cylinder combo (NPD
2005-20EB ) came in
Anon box without any documentation, instruction or other information about the product. Anyhow it looks very nice - kind of vintage aluminium finish in the master cylinder and bowl. Like promised by NPD, it bolted straight in to the firewall and brake pedal without any modifications. This was an important criteria for me when choosing the product. Many of the aftermarket booster-master kits are for automatic instead of manual transmission, but this comes with a smaller diameter booster which yields the manual transmission's Z-bar.
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| Anon booster and master cylinder combo |
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| This kits bolts w/o modifications |
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| Booster yields clutch rod and z-bar |
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| The kit sits nicely |
The booster-master also fits nicely between the firewall and shock tower and there are no modifications needed to export brace either. The brake line outlets are only on the right side of the master cylinder which is a little peculiar. The Wilwood
proportioning valve 260-11179 was later attached on a self-manufactured tray under the master cylinder and the brake lines were bent to fit. I consider that this is as clean installation as possible. Anyhow, there is a small change that may need to be taken care for later. The master cylinder outlets at the moment are connected so that the front bowl of the master feeds the front brake lines in the prop valve and the rear bowl feeds the rear line. I most applications that I've seen they are vice versa. I do not know if this means anything significant, but in case it does, I'll have to crisscross those short lines seen in the below picture. For this it would help to have some kind of instructions added to the kit.
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| Prop valve and tray bolts below the master |
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| Brake lines to the wheels |
Installing the
Wilwood Classic front disc brake conversion kit is pretty easy and straight-forwarding job which can be done in a couple of hours following the instructions included in the kit. The kit includes all you need. Important is to shim the brackets correctly so that the cylinder and brake pads center around the brake disc. Once shimmed tighten the bolts to correct torque, connect the brake lines, bleed the system and you have the brakes.
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| V8 type spindles is all you need |
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| Disc hub with Red Line greased bearings |
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| Brake saddle installed |
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| Enough space for 14" rims |
I enjoyed my skills bending the brake lines so much that I continued and bought some 3/8" Moroso aluminium fuel line. It took some time to figure out how to bend it and still be able to slide it under the car but finally I have a one-piece line all the way from the fuel tank, over the rear axle, along the subframe connectors, through the torque box and aside the frame rail to the engine bay.
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| Note the aluminium 3/8" fuel line |
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| 14" rims are '68 styled steel |
