Wednesday, November 30, 2016


Every now and then it comes to my mind that despite of hours spent in the shop nothing gets finished or done. Day after day you keep going to the shop until you cannot see the progress you've made with the project. So that's when you need to go back to your computer and take a look at the pictures to remind you that things actually have gone further. Here are a couple of miscellaneous shots of the past month.

Pedal assembly rebuilt
The doors epoxy primed
Trunk lid got some paint
Gas tank painted

The interior epoxy primed

Trunk lid test fit

Quarter vents disassembled and taken to soda blasters

More parts to the soda blasters

Quarter vents polished

Shock tower supports painted and assembled

Driver fender primed and painted

Splash shields installed

Test fitting the doors, hood and fenders

This morning when opening the garage door

Hood, hinges and engine bay finished

So a lot has been accomplished but some more time will have to be spent with the sheet metal. I already had thought that I wouldn't be needing the welding machine any more with this project. The gap between the driver door and fender cannot be adjusted so most likely I'll have to level the gap by welding more stuff on the edge of the door. As can seen in the below picture the contours of the door do not meet the shape of the rear edge of the fender.

This area will need welding

You just have to accept that this kind of setbacks sometimes occur. I am still aiming for having the body parts fit before the end of the year.

Update December 1st

After a couple of more pursuits, some bending and persuation I am convinced that no welding is needed.

Monday, November 14, 2016

Pedal assembly

In between all the grinding and priming sometimes you want to feel like getting something finished. In addition to that, I'll soon be ready to install the steering column (once it has been reconditioned) and that can only be done after the pedal assembly has been installed. The bushings on the assembly looked quite tired so I ordered a Master Rebuild Kit from a local dealer. As order for a new brake light switch was set as well because the old one had been there during the sandblasting and I did not bother to check whether it was working or not.
Pedal assembly

The disassemble is quite straight forward except for the heavy clutch spring. I did not do it like this but later figured out that the easiest way is to push the clutch pedal forward, then to remove the stopper and move the pedal back and the spring is loosened and easy to remove. I did the removal by pulling the axle outwards until the clutch pedal could be moved so much forward that the spring got loose.

Remove the clutch pedal stopper to ease the removal of the spring

The clutch pedal is attached to the axle with punched locking wedge that has to be ground or, like in my case drilled off before the axle can be detached.

The wedge in the axle ties the axle to the pedal

The axle drilled and punched off the pedal

While waiting for the repair kit the parts were cleaned and painted. Maybe too early for the assembly itself as the kit has roller bearings instead of bushings and the bushing housings need to be cut off.

Bushing housings cut off

The Scott Drake kit comes with roller bearings and wavy washers which are to be installed from the inside and large washers from the outside. Then the axle may be pressed in to ensure correct line. The bearing housing is secured with O-ring clips. I decided to opt to weld the large washers to the assembly. Then the new axle was welded on the clutch pedal. I did not pay too much attention to the remaining distance from the pedal to the groove on the other end of the axle and had to pay extra time fitting the axle locking washer and pin to the other end. Note what happened with the first washer when the pin was pressed in. So it is important to check that the washer and the pin will fit before welding the axle to the clutch pedal.

Test fitting

Secured with the clip. The pin hole too close to the bearing.

Large washer welded and the assembly repainted

Brake pedal with new bushings

New axle welded in the clutch pedal

Axle passing brake pedal

First washer got hurt

The second one succeeded better

The plastic insulator of the clutch spring

The easier way to install the spring.

Clutch stopper back in

Brake light switches, bushings and the shaft

The first bushing ring

'Then the shaft, switch and the second bushing

The third bushing and the pin

Clutch rod with the new brass bushings. Old nylon on the left

The hole on the pedal was enlarged to 13 mm.

The pad had to be replaced.

The final result

Ready to be installed

I like the new feel of the pedals. They feel snug but still easy to operate. In this application the bearings only apply for the clutch operation while the brake pedal goes with bushings and grease. For automatic transmission I would drill a hole through the brake pedal axle housing and the axle and secure them together with a screw to take full benefit of the bearings. This job was well worth the cost and effort while I was at it anyhow.

I also like the color I chose to make it easier to see things when working under the dash. I think the concours correct color is typical Ford's no-color-at-all or 'natural finish' .

Monday, October 10, 2016

5 months later

There remains quite a lot of body work to be done before the frost and snow comes so it is about the time to find the motivation to epoxy prime the interior, test fit and finish the doors, front fenders, trunk lid and the hood. The dark comes earlier day by day and soon I will not be able to ventilate the shop or work outdoors. To get started with that Snowback was hauled back home. I would like to proceed with engine, brakes and other mechanical areas but probably I'll have prioritize the body work and paint because that will become harder and harder as we are moving towards winter. And if I succeed to be effective with this the car could be sent to paint shop by the end of the year or early next year.

Tuesday, May 10, 2016

Summer break

Now the car only needed wheels to be able to roll and steer. Some more paint was applied in the trunk before it got loaded on a trailer and off to storage for the summer. Not much of body work left for the next winter season. Don't you think the hauler is up to it's task ? It is an Opel Astra with 100hp 1.6 liter engine.

Friday, May 6, 2016

Steering Box

ID tag on the steering box says:


According to the documentation found in the internet

ApplicationTag Code  TypeRatio Turns
65-66 MustangHCC AWPower16:13 3/4
HCC AXManual16:13 3/4
HCC ATManual19.9:14 5/8

And the interpretation of the date code is:

1st digitYear41964
2nd digitMonthKOctober
3rd and 4thDate088th
5thShiftB B(the second work shift of the day)

Based on the dates, this might be the original "slow-ratio" box installed by the factory.
The basic reconditioning took place with the steering box. Cleaning, painting and greasing, that is.

Steering box

Idler arm
Good instructions how to lubricate the box can be found on Stangers' site. In brief it goes like this. 
1) Turn wheels all the way to one end 2) Remove fill plug and the farthest screw 3) Press grease in until it squirts out of the screw hole 4) Turn wheels to the other end and repeat the steps.

Fill Plug removed

Grease squirting out of the far-most screw hole

Tie rod

More detailed adjustments for camber, caster and toe will be done later as well adjusting the steering box for which instructions can be found here.