Wednesday, February 8, 2017

Rear Brakes

The car left the factory with drum brakes in every corner and non-boosted single bowl master cylinder, just like so many of it's siblings. The drum brakes are fine in normal operation, but for more serious braking front discs would add stopping performance. A brake booster will make the operation nicer and the dual line system would add safety. Due to the condition of the old brake tubes, flexible hoses and master cylinder the decision is easy to make for rebuilding the brakes from the beginning. 

I want to reserve the option to use Ford's 14" rims which narrows the options for front discs and calipers and when a minimum amount of modification is wanted the options to find suitable master cylinders + boosters with dual lines are even fewer, especially when the use of original type z-bar clutch link rods shall be used. Browsing the discussion threads over the topic told me that the one available from NPD is the only one that bolts to the original pedal assembly and fits between the firewall and shock tower and the only modification is to make a minor notch in the export brace.

My plan for brake system consists of


REAR BRAKES


To get started with the plan the rear brakes and parking brake got installed. Some stuff was ordered from NPD and the shoes, wheel cylinders and hardware was purchased from US Parts and the rest of hardware were cleaned.



Raybestos PG151 and hardware
Wheel cylinder WC36020 is for passenger side
WC36019 for driver side attached.
Self-adjust wire hanging loose
The parking brake equalizer rod  is universal for both sides. 
Equalizer rod slid in
New Scott Drake parking brake cable
Self-adjustment mechanism

PARKING BRAKES


The lever was cleaned and painted. The front parking brake cable was shot and so was the parking brake lever handle so new ones were ordered. The Scott Drake cable looked fine but the same can not be said about the handle (# 2760-1 , Made in Taiwan). The new one does not look the same, it is not curved as the original and the hole for locking pin is drilled in the wrong angle so the handle would hang looking stupid. Therefore a new hole needed to be drilled to make this inexpensive piece acceptable for installation. 

Parking brake lever waiting for installation

This is the rattling latch that needs to be released...
...to be able to install the ball end of the cable

The pulley, pin and clip

The old and the new handle
Note the position of the locking pin hole

Now the parking brake actuator assembly can be installed under the dash. (ironically I do not have a picture of this phase at hand right now), the front cable brackets can be secured to the firewall and to transmission tunnel cross member. The transmission support cross member needs to be installed in order to go further under the car.

Rear cable to bracket
Cable support at the outer side of rear frame rail
The equalizer lever, rod and bracket
Equalized spring attached to frame rail
The rims were painted to finish the install

OK. Basically the car now has parking brake working. The adjustment and use of the brakes will only happen when I am finished with master cylinder, hard lines, flexible lines and front brakes and bleeding. 













Friday, January 13, 2017

Heater Box

This is the heater box after being pulled from under the dashboard. The heater blower motor had the following code and date marking

Blower motor C0DF-18527-A
Date OCT 6 1964




The plenum practically crushed when touched. This is factory installed cardboard type plenum. The core has been repaired or replaced, obviously by Dota Bros Service Station, Wilbur Avenue, Phillipsburg, NewJersey (childhood home town of Jayne Mansfield). The core seems to be good so thanks for a job well done, Bros!






The core seemed to be in good shape but otherwise the box was very dirty and all the gaskets were eroded. The box (which is surprisingly expensive as a reproduction) also needed some glass-fiber patching and new hinges for the fresh air door. Once painted it was set aside for a while until my order for NPD included the necessary parts to fulfill the reconditioning. The heater operating panel got some cleaning, lubrication and polishing and here are the final results.





It's been three years passing since I bought this car. It seems like the restoration will take more time, effort than what I expected back then. So far I have been able to mostly restore it with the parts supplied along with the vehicle or parts obtained from local resellers. A couple of weeks ago I placed my first order to NPD because I needed parts that were not available off the shelf from any local. But now I have done all that can be done without buying more and more parts. The big spending is needed for motor, interior and the paint job. 

As the USD is strong against EUR the prices are now higher to me that during the restoration of Destiny some 8 years ago. With the latest order, including UPS freight costs, customs and taxes, the final price for the delivery is 1.5 times the USD price in EUR, This means that an order of goods worth $1000 in the NPD catalogue will cost me €1500 delivered to my door. It is crazy but the local sellers tend to have 1.6 - 1.8 times the pricing. So it is cheaper to place a direct order and it is fun to track the packages as well. Here is the latest route from NPD to me.





Thursday, December 15, 2016

Steering column

The epoxy on the interior was once more ground and Dinitrol 410 UV seam sealer was (tooth)brushed on the sheet metal seams before a layer of Temadur 50 in 'signal red' tone was sprayed to finish the red coating on inside roof and elsewhere. It seems to be very hard to find a modern formula for the tones of color. The paint resellers cannot match the Ditzler codes from the '60s to any of the formulas found in their databases. In '65 the the interior is bright red , but in '66 it turned to more dark maroon. I took a wild guess when accepting the 'signal red' without being able to compare it with the interior carpet or dash pad as I do not have them yet.









The steering column was disassembled and the tube was sanded and painted with the same color. During the disassembly I succeeded to break the wiring support that is placed inside the tube for keeping the wires not messing with the steering shaft. This support plate is not available as replacement so I had to design an additional reinforcing support for it.


The column collar is slid in place between the wire accesses


The connectors we pulled out through the opening

Holes were driller for the additional support

The support plate screwed in place

Wiring is in place

The hardware for securing the collar and turn signal assembly


Assembly positioned...


...and secured with square head screws

Ready for placing the collar

Maybe I regret it later but - as I only have limited amount of storage space especially for the reconditioned parts - I move on to installing the steering column and the under-the-dash components. The reasons for regrets might be that the tone of color is absolutely wrong and I'll have to re-paint the dash and column and the case of possible bad protection for over-spray during the painting of the body. To proceed with the steering column install calls for first installing the gasket and firewall pad which I re-manufactured from 30 mm sound insulator using the old one as a template. The insulator has adhesive surface on the other side so the button fasteners are not required but those will be added in places where the original holes still exist.


Steering column firewall gasket

Adhesive firewall insulator

Once the pad had been cut to fit and placed in the pedal assembly was positioned and bolted in as the steering column will be secured to dash with common stud bolts. The lower end of the column tube was painted black so the red will not be visible in the engine department.


Pedal assembly


End tip painted black

Tube end rubber went in first

The fresh air vent was cleaned and painted. In the below picture the operating knob bracket is upside down which I realized too late after the first pursuit to install. Easier to check first that rotate it under the dash.


Driver side fresh air vent

Steering column in place

Fresh air vent installed

Wednesday, November 30, 2016

November


Every now and then it comes to my mind that despite of hours spent in the shop nothing gets finished or done. Day after day you keep going to the shop until you cannot see the progress you've made with the project. So that's when you need to go back to your computer and take a look at the pictures to remind you that things actually have gone further. Here are a couple of miscellaneous shots of the past month.

Pedal assembly rebuilt
The doors epoxy primed
Trunk lid got some paint
Gas tank painted

The interior epoxy primed

Trunk lid test fit

Quarter vents disassembled and taken to soda blasters

More parts to the soda blasters

Quarter vents polished

Shock tower supports painted and assembled

Driver fender primed and painted

Splash shields installed

Test fitting the doors, hood and fenders

This morning when opening the garage door

Hood, hinges and engine bay finished

So a lot has been accomplished but some more time will have to be spent with the sheet metal. I already had thought that I wouldn't be needing the welding machine any more with this project. The gap between the driver door and fender cannot be adjusted so most likely I'll have to level the gap by welding more stuff on the edge of the door. As can seen in the below picture the contours of the door do not meet the shape of the rear edge of the fender.

This area will need welding

You just have to accept that this kind of setbacks sometimes occur. I am still aiming for having the body parts fit before the end of the year.

Update December 1st

After a couple of more pursuits, some bending and persuation I am convinced that no welding is needed.