How to remove door internals

I've done this a couple of times before but anyhow it was challenging to recall the correct order of disassembling the doors so this time I decided to to document the process for future. The main order in the disassemble is to work from front to rear so that the vent window comes out first and the locking system comes out last. So here is how I did it.

1.	Remove the window crank, door latch crank and the door handle
2.	Peel the door upholstery panel out and remove the cardboard behind it
3.	Unscrew the window crank limiters.
	The upper of them is the up limit and the lower is supposed to limit the low position
4.	Remove the C-clip and the roller from the scissor channel in the and unbolt the 2 nuts
5.	Loosen  the 4 bolts from the window crank mechanism and the 3 bolts
	which hold the scissor entity to the inner door panel
6.	Lift the window upward so that you can
7.	Remove the 2 c-clips and rollers which hold the scissor to the channel in window
	The scissor system can now be pulled off the window frame
8.	While holding the window up , use your other hand to remove
	the 7 bolts that hold the scissor and crank mechanism.
	Now the mechanism is loose and may be dropped to the bottom
	of the door and pulled out.  If it does not drop at this point see phase 12 and return here and continue
9.	Loosen and remove the two bolts from the vent window
10.	Loosen and remove the two nuts which secure the adjustable
	screws of the vent window
11.	If possible screw in the adjustable screws of the vent window.
	They cannot be removed until the vent window is lifted upwards a couple of inches
	(my lower adjustable screws was so tight with rust that it could not be removed even then)
12.	If not possible in phase 8 you can now lift and move the vent window so that the
	window mechanism drops to the bottom and can be removed.
13.	Remove the bolt and window up limiter from the front of the bottom frame of the window
14.	Lower the window to the bottom of the door
15.	I will replace my furry belt line weatherstrip so I removed them at this point.
16.	The vent window can now be lifted about 2 inches so that
	you can remove the adjusting bolts out of the openings in the window.
	Once done lift the vent window out of the door.
17.	Move the window forward and start working at the rear of the door
	Remove the 4 screws that hold the gasket on the upper opening
	Remove the 2 cups covering the openings
	Remove the 2 bolts and 1 nut holding the rear window run
	Remove the short bolt holding the window rear limiter but do not remove the hex head screw
18.	By moving the window forward and up inside the door you can now remove the rear run
19.	Lift the window up and move it rearward and slide it out

 

I was unable to remove the vent window adjusting screw so I did not manage to pull it out. Therefore I did have to define an application to the above instructions so that I did not remove the vent window but lifted it up as much as possible and hung it so that it remained out of the way until the rear run was removed. 

Once both doors were done, they we sent to soda/sand blasting. The passenger side door may have chances to be recovered but the driver door will need some patching and a new door skin panel.

This interior panel had the date Sep. 28 1964 stamp on it.

Panorama view of the door shell

Window crank limiters

Limiter openings

Scissor channel, clips and rollers

Front scissor channel in the bottom of the window frame 

Rear scissor channel in the bottom of the window frame

Window crank scissor system removed

Loosening the vent window securing bolts

Vent windows lifted for removal of the adjusting nuts

Home made hoist to be able to loosen the rusted adjusting bolts.
The rear run is being pulled out.

Vent window removed

Hi Jackers sticker is so '70s

Floor Pans

With the subframe connectors in place demanded for the floor pans to follow. I received a pair of full-length Taiwanese floor pans when I purchased the vehicle. They felt like fitting nicely when checked prior to installing the connectors. They have a lot of excess material in front and on the curved inner side which were cut off roughly first.

The connectors prevent fitting the pans exactly before making the final cuts so I paid a lot of time verifying the correct position and the little by little cut pieces off. I used marker pen to help decide how much overlap I had and finally left a couple of centimeters.The problem in fitting is that the pan does not fit correctly until the final cut is done and the final cut cannot be made until the final position is defined.

The subframe connectors required the pan to be 'sunk' around it. The area was marked under the car and cut about one centimeter smaller. The remaining extra sheet metal was then twisted upwards and hammered tight to press against the side of the connector while gently hammering the floor pan downwards.

Cutting the opening for the connector

Once the fit was satisfying, the pan was removed, the necessary spot weld holes drilled, the pan was installed once again and secured with self-drilling screws to the frame rail extension and to the transmission cross member as these are the most crucial areas and need to be welded first.

Final fitting before welding

Seat platform area

The long seam weld to the drive shaft tunnel was the last when all the spots had been welded to the frame rails, cross member and to the rocker panel. I tack welded the panels together and used my angle grinder to cut both sheets simultaneously. Then they were butt welded little by little.

Both sides done

Now I had the floor for the front passenges and for the rear foot well area. But the floor under the rear seat was still to be addressed.

The opened areas of rear frame rails were cleaned, painted and boxed with 10x30 cm sheet metal patches. Before that I had to cut and remove the quarter trim panel support brackets. I took some measures before cutting to be able to place them back in the same position. Then the remaining rusted material was removed by drilling, cutting and grinding.

Measuring the distance between
quarter trim panel support and the rocker

Brackets removed

Patches for boxing the rear frame rails

Patches welded

I wanted to avoid removing the seat brackets so I only used a piece of the patch on the driver side. The passenger side had so much pitting and rust so I had to replace a larger piece and add a small triangular patch in between. The seat bracket's position was measured prior to removing.

The panels are Canadian made but to my disappointment the passenger side especially needed a lot of massaging to fit. Once the sheet metal was attached, I welded the seat and trim panel brackets back.

Quarter trim brackets still missing in this picture

Now my car does have a floor, despite that a lot of grinding is still left to be done.