Toploader 4 speed

Ford Toploader 4 speed pulled out of a '65 Mustang

 We pulled the transmission and this is what came out

• Main case casting code: 65AR 7006-D (casting looks like 65AF, though)
• Tailhousing type: C4DR-7A040-A
• Input shaft: 10 spline
• Output shaft: 25 spline
• Wide ratio
• Shifter: Hurst Competition Plus (aftermarket, with solid stick)

We managed to pull the Toploader with shift shafts and stick still there by loosening the two bolts of the adapter plate marked with arrows in the below picture. That gave the shifter enough space to move so that the shift shaft could come out. This might be useful to know when installing it back when the gear selector shafts have been adjusted after the rebuild.

Loosen and remove the marked bolts

The factory tag was still on the right hand side of the main case but had rusted so badly that it could not be read. According to the documentation on the David Kee's site, I expected this to be HEH-C or HEH-P . Should it appear to have HEH-S or HEH-T on the tag would mean a close ratio gears.

After cleaning the tag it was possible to tell the digits

• HEH P (meaning this a wide ratio box installed in Mustangs between August and December of 1964)
• 020493 (can not tell what this means)

In addition to the tag interpretation I rotated the input shaft with each gear and came to verify the gear ratios

		first	second	third	fourth
	Ratio	2.78	1.93	1.36	1.00

Mustang360 article on Toploader rebuild http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/drivetrain/mump-0903-mustang-top-loader-transmission-rebuild/

The shifter and linkage was then torn apart, the crossmember support and tailhousing were removed and all the parts were cleaned for painting. Inside the case all gears seemed to be OK so replacing the rear oil bushing and seal and gaskets for tailhousing and top cover would be enough. I placed an order for the parts.

Here is a link to a video on the Youtube showing the inside of the main case. While waiting for my order on the spares I made a shifter rebuild described here. Finally after a couple of weeks the ordered parts arrived.

The new bushing is longer that the original

The new seal has additional dust cover

I had the bushing and seal pressed in the tailhousing which I already had cleaned up and painted with Hammerite along with the case.

Tailhousing with the new seal

Checking the yoke fit in the bushing

Checking the yoke fit over output shaft

The new top lid gasket

The torque specifications:

		Lb. Ft.	Nm
	Tailhousing to case bolt	42-50	57-68
	Lid to case bolt	14-19	19-26

I followed the advice found from internet to install the yoke before the tailhousing is tightened. It felt a little sticky so I think that this procedure is worth doing and will help later when installing the drive shaft under the car.

Done