Front end patching

Little this and that has been done to finish the engine bay and front end of the vehicle. The right hand side front fender apron behind the battery tray was replaced. The new replacement panel is made in Taiwan , which I usually try to avoid, but was at hand for delivery so I had it quickly. The good thing about the Taiwanese is that it has the fender mounting holes already punched in the upper edge whereas the Canadian part do not. The Canadian made sheet metal feels a lot stiffer than the Taiwanese product.

Front supported by the tube

Parts being compared

Clecos at work

I also made a couple of smaller patches in the left hand side front apron. I would have been easier to replace that panel too, in regard of easier done and smoother finish. But I did not want to loose my VIN number so the patching was chosen.

To make the aprons more solid with the cowl I welded in the fender apron brackets. To preserve originality I re-used the old one on the left. On the right side it was so rusted out that I had to use a new one.

Driver side apron bracket

Passenger side got a new bracket

Some more grinding and patching and pin hole welding and detailing needed in the engine bay, but now it is solid and I can more further.

Firewall and fender aprons

With the body finally back home and replacement panels at hand the project is ready to go ahead. I planned and decided the order of the activities so that I would replace the sheet metal where ever it is possible to do without tearing the car apart. That is, I wanted to add rigidity to the unibody. The floor pans are so weak and I was worried about the body sagging between the cabin and engine bay unless they were not supported. As a matter of fact the front of the car is connected to the rest of the car from only few places. The frame rails (or the frame rail extensions) are welded to floor pans and the fender aprons are welded to the firewall and that's about it. Now that the firewall is pretty rusted out and the floor pans are almost gone there are not so many spots that connect the parts with each other. To add rigidity easily I figured starting here would make the best result with less effort.

To fix the firewall outer ends with partial firewall outer ends you need to remove the rear fender aprons. The rear fender aprons are spot welded to the shock towers, frame rails and to firewall. Before the removal of the old passenger side apron (date code 10 10D2 and another 10 6 3D on it) I documented the positions of the fender nut slots. After drilling out the spot welds this is what you get.

Now that the apron was gone I was able to define and draw the line where to cut the bad part of the firewall. Luckily this happened to be near to the line which will be covered with the new apron.

The firewall was cut along the line and the patch panel was fitted so that the excess material could be cut. Once the fit was acceptable it was welded in. It appeared that my Mig-welding skills had also some rust due to lack of practice but hopefully they'll return while the project continues.

At this phase I did not pay too much attention to the side cowl panel which can be treated later. I painted the newly welded seam after it had been ground smooth and after the rust had been ground off of the revealed areas. The next day I spot welded the apron. A hint for positioning the apron: have your coil spring covers at hand to define the correct vertical position. The replacement panel is not as perfect fit that you would expect and needs some modification. If it looks good does not mean it's correctly positioned.

Passenger side done

I do not yet have the apron bracket which connects the apron to cowl panel so I proceeded and repeated the patching on the driver side using the same process. The driver side apron seemed to have date code 16 102D near the VIN number. I am not sure if this is the date of manufacturing the part or when it was welded in the unibody. If the latter, then it is funny to notice that there was almost one week between the install dates of the two sides.

The steering column was removed...

...along with the steering box.

Much better seam this time

And hey, why not use clecos if you have some! It took some time to find a local supplier for them. I drill the spot welds with 3.25mm pop rivet drill bit before using the 9.5mm spot weld cutter so the 1/8" clecos are great fit.

The clecos are really helpful

The first replacement panels are there. I'll finish the seams and paint the front later when I'm done with all the patches.

Back from media blasting

Finally, after five weeks, I got Snowback back home the other day. Most of the job was done with sand as media. Certain areas as the roof was handled with soda only. The end result looks good to me as the rust is gone and no new rust areas was found. This cost me quite a lot of  money, but I'm happy with the finished job. Here is a couple of shots.

Nice, clean and almost rust-free

Frame rails and extensions were in good shape,
despite that the floor pans are lost.

Under the rear seat and inner wheelhouse

The lower edge of the rear window opening
This will require welding skills

Floor pans and toe boards need to be renewed

The firewall outer ends will get new panels

Apron behind the battery tray, the usual rust collector

Lower end of the spring tower.
Both sides have to be patched.

RH side rear front fender apron.
LH looks pretty much the same.

No big disappointments except for the lower edge of the rear window opening, which appeared to be lousier than I had expected.

What was extremely encouraging is, that one of the most common rust areas, the cowl area,  had no rust at all ! So I will yield drilling out the 200+ spot welds of the cowl panel. Been there, done it , don't want to do it again ! The rocker panels were in excellent condition, unlike the ones of Destiny.

Neither did Destiny have rust damages in engine bay and firewall, whereas this one has plenty of them.  In many ways this car is totally different than Destiny and so are the areas of rust. I have plenty of replacement panels already but a couple more will have to be ordered as the reconditioning proceeds.

To the media blasting

During the spring and summer I little by little tore Snowback apart. In the beginning of September she was finally all undressed and ready to be delivered to media blasting. This time a combined set of soda and sandblasting was chosen to be the method. I will keep the car rolling as long as possible and replace the sheet metal where ever I can until proceeding to the areas that need the suspension to be removed. The hood, doors and front fenders were left to storage 'as is'. I do not have enough dry storage to keep them on bare metal so I'll have them blasted later.

A couple of shots at the time of delivery of the shell.

We agreed with the blaster that there is "no hurry" with this case in order to keep the cost reasonable. Snowback has been four weeks there now and when I checked last time a week ago, they had not even started yet. OK. It's "no hurry" but I would appreciate getting her back as soon as possible. Or at least I would appreciate a schedule for the job. God, give me patience, but please give it fast !

Shifter Adjustment

As a follow-up of the reconditioning of the Toploader and the Hurst shifter, the shifter needed to be attached to the gearbox and have the shift shafts adjusted. A new set of Hurst Pit Pack with steel shifter bushings and spring clips was available, purchased and the shafts attached with new bushings.

Shift shafts with new bushings and clips

The shifter was then attached to the tailhousing and the shifter was aligned and locked to the neutral position. At this point the gear box is in neutral as well.

Shifter aligned with the 8 mm bar

Then, one by one, I adjusted the nuts so that they fit on the middle of the shift lever opening. This takes a couple of rotate-and-trys until the correct position is found.  No need to install bushings and spring clips until they all have been adjusted.

Easiest way is to adjust 3-4 shaft first and then remove it

All of the shafts positioned correctly

The bushing was greased

And secured with a spring clip

All three installed

All the three shafts were finally adjusted and secured with spring clips. The final stage is to adjust the limiting screws. This is done by engaging the third gear and tightening the rear adjusting screw so that it touches the shifter plate tenderly. Then the fourth gear is engaged and the front adjusting screw in tightened likewise.

Fourth gear engaged

Done

Now start shifting gears ! All the forward gears worked fine when tested. With the gearbox on the table engaging the reverse was more tricky as the whole box tried to turn left when shifting. I think that it helps to engage reverse by engaging the first gear, then returning to neutral and finally to reverse.

Toploader 4 speed

Ford Toploader 4 speed pulled out of a '65 Mustang

 We pulled the transmission and this is what came out

• Main case casting code: 65AR 7006-D (casting looks like 65AF, though)
• Tailhousing type: C4DR-7A040-A
• Input shaft: 10 spline
• Output shaft: 25 spline
• Wide ratio
• Shifter: Hurst Competition Plus (aftermarket, with solid stick)

We managed to pull the Toploader with shift shafts and stick still there by loosening the two bolts of the adapter plate marked with arrows in the below picture. That gave the shifter enough space to move so that the shift shaft could come out. This might be useful to know when installing it back when the gear selector shafts have been adjusted after the rebuild.

Loosen and remove the marked bolts

The factory tag was still on the right hand side of the main case but had rusted so badly that it could not be read. According to the documentation on the David Kee's site, I expected this to be HEH-C or HEH-P . Should it appear to have HEH-S or HEH-T on the tag would mean a close ratio gears.

After cleaning the tag it was possible to tell the digits

• HEH P (meaning this a wide ratio box installed in Mustangs between August and December of 1964)
• 020493 (can not tell what this means)

In addition to the tag interpretation I rotated the input shaft with each gear and came to verify the gear ratios

		first	second	third	fourth
	Ratio	2.78	1.93	1.36	1.00

Mustang360 article on Toploader rebuild http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/drivetrain/mump-0903-mustang-top-loader-transmission-rebuild/

The shifter and linkage was then torn apart, the crossmember support and tailhousing were removed and all the parts were cleaned for painting. Inside the case all gears seemed to be OK so replacing the rear oil bushing and seal and gaskets for tailhousing and top cover would be enough. I placed an order for the parts.

Here is a link to a video on the Youtube showing the inside of the main case. While waiting for my order on the spares I made a shifter rebuild described here. Finally after a couple of weeks the ordered parts arrived.

The new bushing is longer that the original

The new seal has additional dust cover

I had the bushing and seal pressed in the tailhousing which I already had cleaned up and painted with Hammerite along with the case.

Tailhousing with the new seal

Checking the yoke fit in the bushing

Checking the yoke fit over output shaft

The new top lid gasket

The torque specifications:

		Lb. Ft.	Nm
	Tailhousing to case bolt	42-50	57-68
	Lid to case bolt	14-19	19-26

I followed the advice found from internet to install the yoke before the tailhousing is tightened. It felt a little sticky so I think that this procedure is worth doing and will help later when installing the drive shaft under the car.

Done